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Post Hole Concrete Calculator

Concrete for fence and deck post holes, less the volume the post itself fills, in bags per hole and in total, with sizing rules of thumb.

Units (optional)

Inches or millimetres. About 3 × the post width.

Inches or millimetres. About a third of the post's length, and below the frost line.

Post shape (optional)

Inches or millimetres. A 4×4 is 3½ in actual; 100 mm posts are about 95 mm.

Optional. Inches or millimetres of drainage gravel below the concrete.

About the Post Hole Concrete Calculator

Setting posts in concrete is one of the most common small concrete jobs: fence posts, gate posts, deck and pergola posts, mailbox posts, washing-line poles. It is also the job most often done by guesswork — "two bags a post" — which is right for some holes and badly wrong for others.

The amount of concrete a post needs depends on three things: the size of the hole, how deep it is, and how much of the hole the post itself fills. That last part is the one people forget. A slim post in a wide hole takes up little room, but a big post in a tight hole can fill nearly half of it.

This post hole concrete calculator works out the concrete per hole and in total, subtracts the space the post occupies and any gravel at the bottom, and gives the answer in bags — per hole and for the whole job.

How to Use the Post Hole Concrete Calculator

Choose feet and inches or metres and millimetres.

Enter the number of holes, each hole's diameter and depth, and the post shape and width. Use the post's actual size: a "4×4" timber post is 3½ inches square, and a "100 mm" post is usually about 95 mm.

If you put gravel in the bottom for drainage, enter its depth.

Adjust the waste allowance if you like — 10% is the default.

How the Concrete Is Worked Out

  hole      =  π × (diameter ÷ 2)² × (depth − gravel)
  post      =  width² × (depth − gravel)        (square post)
            =  π × (width ÷ 2)² × (depth − gravel)   (round post)
  concrete  =  (hole − post) × holes × (1 + waste %)

Step-by-Step Example

Ten 4×4 fence posts in 10-inch holes, 36 inches deep.

  Hole:      π × 5² × 36        =  2,827 in³
  Post:      3.5 × 3.5 × 36     =    441 in³
  Concrete:  2,827 − 441        =  2,386 in³  =  1.38 ft³ per hole
  Ten posts, + 10%:                 15.2 ft³  =  0.56 yd³

  Bags:      about 4 × 60 lb per hole, or 26 × 80 lb in total

The post takes up about 16% of each hole here — worth subtracting, but not dramatic. A 6×6 post in the same hole would take up almost half.

Sizing the Hole

Two rules of thumb are widely used for fence and deck posts.

Width: a hole about three times the post's width. A 4×4 (3½ in) takes a 10 to 12-inch hole; a 6×6 (5½ in) about 16 inches. The concrete around the post needs enough body to resist it leaning under wind or load.

Depth: about a third of the post's total length in the ground. A post that stands 6 feet above ground is usually 9 feet long with 3 feet buried. In cold climates the hole must also reach below the frost line, or freezing ground can lift the post over the winter.

Gate posts, corner posts and anything carrying a heavy load usually need bigger and deeper holes than the rest of the fence.

Gravel and Drainage

Many installers put 4 to 6 inches of gravel in the bottom of each hole before setting the post. It lets water drain away from the end grain of a timber post, which is where rot usually starts. Enter the gravel depth and the calculator takes it off the concrete.

It also helps to crown the top of the concrete — shape it into a slight dome sloping away from the post — so rainwater runs off instead of collecting at the base.

Fast-Setting or Standard Mix?

Fast-setting post mix is poured dry into the hole around the post, then water is added on top. It sets in 20 to 40 minutes, so the post does not need bracing for long. It is ideal for fences.

Standard concrete is mixed first and poured in. It takes longer to set but is stronger, and is the better choice for decks, gates and anything structural.

Bag yields differ slightly between the two, so check the bag for its yield per bag and adjust if needed.

Setting a Post Step by Step

A few minutes of care at each hole makes a straight, solid fence.

Dig to depth and clean the bottom. Remove loose soil so the post and concrete rest on firm ground, and add gravel if you are using it.

Stand the post and brace it. Use two temporary braces at right angles, and check it is plumb on two adjacent faces with a spirit level.

Fill in stages. Add concrete a few inches at a time, working it with a stick to remove air pockets, and recheck the post is still plumb.

Finish above ground level. Crown the top so water runs away from the post.

Leave it to cure. Standard mix needs a day or two before the post is loaded; fast-setting mix can take rails within hours.

Understanding Your Result

Concrete needed is the total for all the posts, including waste.

Bags in total gives the count for two common bag sizes.

Per hole gives the bags for a single hole — useful when working post by post.

Space taken by the post shows how much of each hole the post fills.

Sizing gives the rule-of-thumb hole size for your post.

Worth knowing covers narrow holes and drainage.

When Should You Use This Calculator?

Before a fence job, to buy the right number of bags in one trip.

For decks and pergolas, where posts are larger.

When holes are dug by machine, which are often wider than planned.

When comparing hole sizes, to see the concrete each one takes.

Common Mistakes

Using nominal post sizes. A 4×4 is 3½ inches.

Not subtracting the post. It can be a large share of a tight hole.

Holes too shallow. Below the frost line, and about a third of the post length.

Letting water pool at the base. Crown the concrete.

Assuming "two bags a post". It depends entirely on the hole.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much concrete do I need per fence post?

For a 4×4 post, 3½ inches actual, in a 10-inch hole 3 feet deep, about 1.4 cubic feet, or 0.051 cubic yards, per post. That is roughly three 60-pound bags, or two and a half 80-pound bags, before waste. The calculator subtracts the space the post itself occupies.

How big should a post hole be?

A common rule is a diameter about three times the post's width, so 10 to 12 inches for a 4×4, and a depth of about a third of the post's total length, or below the frost line if that is deeper. Gate posts and posts on tall fences often need bigger holes.

Why subtract the post from the hole?

Because the post fills part of the hole that concrete would otherwise occupy. For a narrow post in a wide hole the difference is small, but for a large post in a tight hole it can be close to half the volume, so leaving it out over-orders concrete.

Should I put gravel in the bottom of a post hole?

Many installers add 4 to 6 inches of gravel below the concrete so water can drain away from the end of the post, which helps timber last longer. If you do, enter the gravel depth and the calculator will take it off the concrete volume.

Can I use fast-setting concrete for posts?

Yes. Fast-setting post mixes are poured dry into the hole and water is added on top, and they set in 20 to 40 minutes. They are convenient for fences. Standard mix is stronger and better for heavily loaded posts such as decks and gates.

How do I stop fence posts rotting?

Use posts rated for ground contact, add drainage gravel under the concrete, and slope the top of the concrete away from the post so rainwater runs off rather than pooling against the timber. Water sitting at the base is the most common cause of rot.

Last reviewed September 24, 2026 by the CalculatorPeak editorial team.